Year-Round Lawn Care Calendar for Central Texas Homeowners

Central Texas doesn't follow the traditional four-season lawn care playbook. Our extended growing season, unpredictable freezes, and summer heat that regularly exceeds 100 degrees demand a specialized approach. After maintaining hundreds of Pflugerville lawns through drought years and flood years alike, we've developed a month-by-month strategy that works with—not against—our unique climate.

This calendar reflects real-world experience from AnchorSafe Pflugerville Landscapers, where we've spent over fifteen years studying how grass actually behaves in this region. We're not talking about generic advice copied from northern lawn care guides. These are battle-tested strategies for Bermuda, St. Augustine, and Zoysia—the grasses that dominate our neighborhoods.

Winter: January Through February

Your lawn is dormant, but you're not. January and February are prime planning and preparation months. This is when we sharpen mower blades, service irrigation systems, and soil test. That last one is critical—soil testing in winter gives you time to amend pH or nutrient deficiencies before spring green-up. Most Central Texas soils skew alkaline and lack iron, problems that show up as yellowing grass come April if you haven't addressed them.

Resist any temptation to fertilize dormant grass. Those nutrients wash away or leach deep beyond root zones before grass can use them. Instead, focus on removing leaves and debris that smothered turf through fall. Heavy thatch layers trap moisture against dormant crowns, creating perfect conditions for fungal diseases when temperatures fluctuate. A light dethatching in late February prepares your lawn for vigorous spring growth.

Watch for winter weeds—henbit, chickweed, and annual bluegrass love our mild winters. A pre-emergent herbicide application in January prevents these opportunists from establishing. If weeds are already visible, spot-treat with appropriate post-emergent products on days when temperatures exceed 50 degrees. Weed control now means less competition for your grass when active growth resumes.

Early Spring: March Through April

Green-up happens fast here. Once soil temperatures consistently reach 65 degrees—typically mid-March in Pflugerville—warm-season grasses wake up hungry. This is your first fertilization window. We recommend a slow-release nitrogen formula that feeds gradually over six to eight weeks. Heavy feeding this early encourages excessive top growth before root systems fully activate, leaving grass vulnerable to late cold snaps.

April is pre-emergent season for summer weeds. Products containing dimension or prodiamine create a chemical barrier that prevents crabgrass, goosegrass, and sandbur seeds from germinating. Timing matters enormously—apply too late and weeds are already growing; too early and the product breaks down before weed seeds germinate. We target application when Bradford pear trees bloom, a reliable natural indicator that soil temperatures are in the sweet spot.

Resume regular mowing when grass reaches about 30% above its ideal height. For St. Augustine, that's around 3.5 to 4 inches; Bermuda closer to 2 inches. Start high and gradually lower cutting height over several mowings. Scalping dormant grass removes dead material but stresses actively growing turf. If you scalp, do it early March before significant green-up begins.

Late Spring: May Through June

Peak growing season demands peak attention. Grass grows aggressively when soil temperatures climb into the 70s and 80s. Mowing frequency increases to weekly or even twice weekly for Bermuda. Never remove more than one-third of blade height in a single mowing—scalping during active growth shocks grass and creates openings for weeds.

This is aeration season. Late May through June gives warm-season grasses maximum time to recover from aeration stress and exploit newly opened soil channels. Combine aeration with your second fertilization for explosive results. The open pathways deliver nutrients directly to root zones instead of sitting on the surface. If you're overseeding bare spots or trying to thicken your turf, immediately after aeration is your best opportunity.

Irrigation becomes crucial. Your lawn needs about an inch of water weekly from rainfall or irrigation combined. Water deeply and infrequently rather than shallow daily watering—deep watering encourages deep root growth. The best time is early morning between 4 and 8 AM when wind is calm and temperatures are cool, minimizing evaporation and disease risk.

Summer: July Through August

Survival mode. When temperatures consistently exceed 95 degrees and rainfall disappears, lawn care shifts from promotion to protection. Raise mowing heights by at least half an inch—taller grass shades soil, reduces water evaporation, and develops deeper roots. Many homeowners make the critical error of scalping summer grass thinking shorter blades need less water. The opposite is true.

Fertilization gets controversial in summer. We typically skip July and August nitrogen applications entirely. Pushing growth during extreme heat stress invites disease and increases water demand when water is scarce or expensive. If your grass shows yellowing despite adequate water, a light iron application (not nitrogen) restores color without forcing growth.

Accept some dormancy. Bermuda and Zoysia naturally slow growth and may show browning during peak stress—that's protective dormancy, not death. These grasses evolved in hot climates and will recover when conditions improve. St. Augustine requires more water to stay green but can tolerate some browning without permanent damage. Don't panic and overwater. More lawns die from fungal diseases caused by excessive irrigation than from drought.

Fall: September Through November

Fall rivals spring for optimal growing conditions. As temperatures moderate into the 80s and occasional rains return, grass rebounds vigorously. September fertilization takes advantage of this second growth surge, building root reserves before winter dormancy. This feeding actually matters more than summer applications because it fuels root development rather than weak top growth.

Continue regular mowing through October, gradually lowering cutting height as growth slows. That last mowing before dormancy shouldn't leave grass excessively long—tall grass mats down under winter moisture and creates disease problems. Aim for normal height going into winter, not scalped but not shaggy either.

November is pre-emergent time again, but this application targets winter weeds, not summer ones. Products formulated for cool-season weed prevention stop those henbit and chickweed invasions that plague February lawns. If you overseed with ryegrass for winter color—common with Bermuda—skip pre-emergents until after ryegrass establishes, or you'll prevent your desired grass from germinating along with the weeds.

December: Closing Out the Year

Your lawn is headed toward dormancy, but you're setting the stage for next year. Final leaf removal matters more than you might think. Decomposing leaves create acidic mats that smother grass crowns and harbor fungal spores. A clean lawn going into winter emerges healthier in spring.

Review what worked this year and what didn't. Did brown patch plague your St. Augustine in September? Plan better fungicide timing next fall. Did crabgrass break through despite pre-emergent? Adjust application timing or product selection. Lawn care isn't one-size-fits-all—your specific lawn, soil, and microclimate require customized attention.

Successful lawn care in Central Texas requires patience and regional knowledge. Cookie-cutter approaches from national lawn care guides fail here because our climate is fundamentally different. Understanding our extended growing season, brutal summer heat, and unpredictable winter patterns transforms lawn care from frustrating guesswork into strategic success.